Revision+Basics


 * __Basic key facts to learn in Textiles Technology. __**

1. Natural Fibres § **Plant ** – cotton, flax, coir, sisal. § **Animal ** – Silk, wool, Angora, Mohair.

2. **Manmade fibres ** – § **Synthetic ** (made from oil) – Acrylic, polyester, polyamide (nylon) § **Regenerated cellulose ** ( made from wood pulp) – Viscose, Acetate, Modal


 * Smart fibres ** – materials that change when exposed to change in temperature, pressure or light. <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">i.e. liquid crystals in coated fabrics, thermochromic dyes, pressure sensitive fabrics (Electex);

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">3. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Fibres **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> are spun into **yarn** that can be **knitted** or **woven** into **fabric.**
 * <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">FIBRES - YARN - FABRIC **


 * <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">4. ****<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Woven fabric **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – Strong, does not stretch, frays, cool, does not loose shape. Eg. **denim, corduroy.**


 * <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">5. ****<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Knitted fabric **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – Made from loops, stretches, looses shape, unravels easily, warm. Eg. **Jersey, sweatshirting, fleece.**


 * <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">6. ****<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Non woven fabric **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> - made from fibres which **have not been spun**, weak, easily torn cheap to produce.eg. **felt, interfacing.**

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">7.Performance characteristics of fibres are <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> **durability, strength, elasticity, flexibility, absorbency and insulation** these characteristics decide the performance of the fabric they are made into.

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">8. <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Fibres can be **mixed or blended** before spinning to get a yarn/fabric with the performance characteristics that you want. Eg. Mixing polyester and cotton makes a fabric that doesn’t crease much. As polyester stops cotton creasing. Different yarns can also be mixed, during knitting and weaving, to get a fabric with the performance characteristics that you need.

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">9. **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Finishing processes **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> are applied to improve the final appearance, handle (feel) and wear of fabrics. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Mechanical finishes **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> (using a machine to produce a finish): § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Brushing **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – uses rollers with wire brushes on to raise the pile (fluff) of the fabric. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Calendering **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – uses heated rollers to smooth and shine the surface of a fabric. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Chemical finishes **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">(using chemical solutions to change the properties of fabric) § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Stain resistance – **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> Silicone or synthetic resin sprayed onto the fabric surface. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Flame resistance – **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> Applied mainly to furnishings, childrens nightwear and protective clothing. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Water resistance – **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> silicones are sprayed onto fabric. Different chemicals are used depending on how long the product has to be water repellent for. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Other finishes include Anti static, Anti pilling, Easy care, Moth proofing. **

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">10. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Special finishing treatments include **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Anti bacterial **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> –to sterilize surgical gowns and masks. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Light sensitive **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – fabric changes colour to signal different conditions. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Deodorant **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – to reduce body odour. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">To block ultra violet rays **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">– acts as a sunscreen.

§ <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Methods which would be good to use to get a detailed pattern effect include: **embroidery (in small areas) screen printing, transfer printing, fabric pens.** § <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Methods for a less detailed pattern include: **Tie dye, batik (both resist dyeing techniques), appliqué, stencilling, block printing, quilting, and patchwork.** <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Make sure that you can explain how to do a couple of these techniques.
 * <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">11. ****<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Fabric decoration techniques **

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">12. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Fixing **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> makes sure that the dye stays in the fabric (doesn’t run when washed). It can be done with heat, salt or other chemicals.

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">13. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Components **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – Separately manufactured items that are added to a product. E.g. Buttons, zips, lace, braid, buckles, iron on or sew on logos or motifs, rivets, studs, eyelets, ribbon etc.

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">14. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Shaping of garments **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – There are 4 main ways of getting a garment to be the right shape to fit a body. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Darts **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – folds of fabric that end in a point at the fullest part of the required shape. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Tucks **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – A fold in the fabric held by the sewing in the seam. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Gathering **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – Draws in the fullness of the garment evenly. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Elastication **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – Uses elastic to gather the fabric.

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">15. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Seams **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">– § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Plain seam **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – The seam that is used the most. Gives a flat result. Used on non fraying fabrics and thick fabrics. Seams need to be neatened to prevent fraying. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">French seam **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">- Used on fine fabrics, lingerie and children’s clothes as the raw edges are concealed. A strong seam but can be bulky. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Double stitched seam **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – Strong seam. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Flat felled seam **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – Strong and can be seen. Can be bulky. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Overlocked seam **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – Overlocking sews, trims and neatens the seam in one process. This stops fraying. Good to use on knitted fabrics as the seam stretches with the fabric.

§ **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Job production **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> - this involves producing ‘one off’ products. Every item produced is different. It is labour intensive – also known as jobbing/’jobbie’ or ‘one off’. § **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Batch production **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> -involves the production of a specified quantity of a product. Batches can be repeated as many times as required. This type of production method is flexible and can be used to produce batches of similar products with only a small change to the machinery – also known as **progressive bundle system**.
 * <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">16. ****<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Production methods **

§ **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt; font-style: normal;">Mass Production ** <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt; font-style: normal;">1. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt; font-style: normal;">Repetitive flow **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt; font-style: normal;">; also known as **flow line production** - involves producing large numbers of identical products for a relatively low cost. The production is usually broken down into sub assemblies of smaller components. This form of mass production can be labour intensive or completely automated depending on the product being manufactured. <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">2. **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Continual flow process **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> - this involves uninterrupted 24hrs/day production of a basic commodity such as steel, chemicals, oil or basic food products. This type of production continues because it is expensive to shut down and restart. Only a small workforce is needed to maintain the process.

§ **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Cell production **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">- this is a number of work stations (machinists) grouped to produce a single component. § **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">In-line assembly **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> - this is used to mass-produce many everyday items especially cars. Many <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">In-line assembly systems are fully automated and only require people to ensure that they don’t break down. § **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Just in time **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">- this requires materials, components and sub-assemblies to arrive from other factories ‘just in time’ for production at one factory. Finished products are sent out immediately they are made. This system reduces any storage of stock and allows for changes to the product to be made quickly without the need to use up stock items first. § **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Off the peg’ manufacture **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">- textile items which are cheaper because they are made to fit standard average sizes, not the exact measurements of a particular individual. When making ‘off the peg’ clothes the standard size template can be used for a production run. E.g. 8,10,12,14 etc. This allows a batch of items to be made at one time, spreading costs and making each item cheaper. § **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Logistics **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> - Organising the availability of materials and components so that they arrive at the factory when they are needed.
 * <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">17. ****<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Commercial manufacturing systems **

<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">18. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Systems and control **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> -A <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> system has three parts**, input, process** and **output**. <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">The basic features of a control system are <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> **input sensors, process decisions, output feedback**. <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">For example when sewing a seam the **input** is pushing the fabric through the machine, **process** decisions are making sure that the fabric goes in straight and the **output** is the straight sewn seam.

<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">19. **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Quality Assurance – **<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">the way the production system is managed to ensure that a quality product is made. Strict procedures and specifications are laid down for each stage of production and these should be kept to, therefore making sure that there are no faults in the product.

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">20. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Quality Control **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – the tests and inspections that are used at certain points of the production process to make sure that the product is of the correct quality. E.g. checking for holes in seams, faults in the fabric.

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">21. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">CAD – Computer Aided Design **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – Computers used to design products, with these you can design fabrics, clothes and patterns. Advantages are that they speed up the design process and you can make changes quickly. It is cost effective. You can change colours, size, scale and features of the design. You can plan out stitches so that designs can be sent straight to the machine that will manufacture it.

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">22. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">CAM – Computer Aided Manufacture **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> – Computers which control the machines which make the products. Knitting machines are computerized so that the CAD design can be sent straight to the knitting machine that knits it exactly as the design. It is very quick and cheap to change designs and therefore very good for batch production. Each product also always comes out the same. <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">In school the computerized sewing machine that can write your name is an example of CAM.


 * <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Also when answering the questions remember: **

<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">1.If a question says **‘annotate’** it means that you should label the design, diagram etc. Details of fabrics, design ideas, components, explanations etc. can be written on. <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">2.Questions that contain words such as **state, list, identify, name**, only require one or two word answers. <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">3.Questions containing words such as **explain, justify, analyse, describe** require a more detailed answer. <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">4.Avoid using phrases such as ‘quick and easy’, ‘nice effect’ and ‘strong’ Be much more precise. <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">5. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Design features **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> are a particular aspects of a design e.g. the pockets on a shirt. The embroidery round a hem of a skirt. <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">6. **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">Performance characteristics **<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;"> are what a fibre, fabric or product can do. It could be crease resistant, durable or very absorbent etc. <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">7.The exam will contain questions about aspects of our project work such as research, designing, product analysis, specifications, testing, and evaluation. <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">8.Take drawing equipment to the exam, you may have to draw a design. <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; font-size: 14pt;">9.There will be a question on the a theme given by your exam board. You will have to design products based on this theme.

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